"Where Tradition Meets Innovation"
There are a couple of methods of decorative moulding installation, which we refer to as "50/50" and "tight frieze". Each has it's place, the tight frieze may be easiest to install but we prefer the 50/50, especially when plinth blocks are included in the mix. These two images illustrate the visual difference between the methods.
50/50 Tight Frieze

How to Install the 50/50
The 50/50 installation is not nearly as difficult as it may appear to be, you will see.

Our NEW V'ler Gauge (pat pend) aids in setting and maintaining the proper reveal.
1. Install the plinth block 1/16" from the face of the door jamb. Most modern jamb sets have a slight radius on the edges so you don't want them flush. If the plinth block and the casing are the same width (see 'tight frieze' below) reveal the casing and the plinth the same amount, usually 3/16".
2. Butt the end of your tape ruler upon the top of the plinth block and measure the distance to the face of the head jamb, here we read 76-7/16", and then add 1/16" to that dimension. We will cut this piece 76-1/2" long.
3. Center your casing atop the plinth block and fasten in place, keeping the same margin (reveal) between the casing edge and jamb face as you nail your way up to the head jamb. Center the rosette block atop the casing and fasten. Repeat 1 - 3 for the other side of doorway.
4. Butt the end of your ruler into the rosette block on one side of the opening.
5. Measure the distance to the edge of the rosette block on the other side and cut to that dimension. If you happen to cut a tiny bit shy, not to worry, you can tap the rosette with a wood block and hammer to close the gap.
For window installations, or doors without the use of plinth blocks, you will need to determine the appropriate casing/jamb 'reveal'. To do so, subtract the width of the casing from the width of the rosette block and divide that by 2, and then add 1/16" to the result. For example; say we have 2-1/4" casing and a 2-1/2" rosette block, we subtract 2-1/4" from 2-1/2" and then divide by 2, which leaves us with 1/8", to which we add 1/16" for a total of 3/16". This is the margin that we should 'reveal' the casing from the jamb face, as shown in the middle image below.

A four corners installation on a window has to start somewhere, and we will start at the bottom. Measure the distance between the left and the right jamb faces near the sill, and then add 1/8" to that dimension (1/16" for each side). Cut your casing to the prescribed length and position it on the bottom sill, centered left to right, and revealed from the sill edge by the distance from the formula above. Each end of the casing should extend beyond the side jamb by 1/16", as shown. Center your rosette blocks on each side, fasten, and then follow directions 2 - 5 above.
More detailed instructions are available upon request.
How to Tight Frieze
Our NEW V'ler Gauge (pat pend) aids in setting and maintaining the proper reveal.
1. First you must decide how much you wish to reveal the casing from the edge of the jambs. Usually 3/16" is sufficient to clear the hinges and striker plate.
2. Measure from the floor, or top of plinth, to the bottom face of the head jamb as shown above (76-7/16") and then add the amount of reveal to that dimension. We would cut this piece 76-5/8" long, if using a 3/16" reveal.
3. Fasten the casing to the jamb, maintaining the same reveal (3/16") from the jamb edge, bottom to top. Repeat steps 2 - 3 for the other side of the door.
4. Measure the distance between the left and right casings at the head jamb, cut to length and install so that they all meet at the corners as shown at top.

Like the 50/50 above, for a four corner window install we'll start at the bottom and work up. Measure the distance between the left and right jambs, but this time you will need to add the amount of reveal for each side to that dimension. With a 3/16" reveal we would add 3/8" to the above measurement and cut to length. Center the casing on the sill so that each end extends 3/16" beyond the face of the jambs and reveal it 3/16" from the sill edge and fasten. Repeat for the other jambs and when done each should meet corner to corner, creating a pocket.
Always keep your woodgrain orientation in mind.